Over five years in the planning and several setbacks including three trips to the top end. Joanne and I finally got the opportunity to do Eight Mile Beach on Groote Eylandt. The second last Mile Beach, and one of the most memorial and happiest mile beach we have done.
| General Location | Groote Eylandt |
|---|---|
| Aboriginal Tribe/Language Group | Warnindilyakwa people |
| Access to beach | Road access to the beach |
| Beach Classification | Wave Dominated – Intermediate – Traverse Bar & Rip |
| Start Date/Time | 6 August 2022 11:16 |
| Start Location (inc Lat/Log) | S13° 54.143’ E136° 51.552’ |
| End Date/Time | 6 August 2022 12:32 |
| End Location (inc Lat/Log) | S13° 48.358’ E136° 54.881’ |
| Mode of Travel | Car |
| Distance Travelled | 6.1km |
| Location of Sand Sample (lat/Long) | S20° 50.195’ E116° 22.806’ |
Introduction
It has been exactly two years since the last mile beach was completed in Wilsons Promontory Victoria. Initially due to costs I was going to travel to Groote Eylandt by myself, but wiser heads prevailed, and Joanne came along and joined in the experience. This report is a bit longer than most other Mile Beach reports but given the planning and experiences connected with getting to the beach I believe it is justified.
Groote Eylandt is the third largest Australian island with an area of 2,687 square kilometres. It was named “Great Island” by the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1644 and has been home to the Anindilyakwa Aboriginal people for thousands of years. The island is on the western side of the Gulf of Carpentaria close to the Northern Territory mainland. Visitors have been coming here for a long time, with Macassan and Bugis sailors first arriving in their boats some 400 years or more ago searching for ‘beche de mer’ (the sea cucumber or trepang), highly valued for trade with Southern China.
The Traditional Owners of the Groote Archipelago are an amalgamation of two cultures – the Warnindilyakwa, whom have occupied Groote Eylandt for around 8,000 years, and the Nunggubuyu. The latter, at the invitation of the Warnindilyakwa began their migration to Groote Eylandt in the second half of the 18th century. The Warnindilyakwa and the Nunggubuyu of the Groote Archipelago now constitute a family based collective culture that is bound by Ceremonial participation of two types.
Nunggubuyu people speak the Wubuy language and Warnindilyakwa speak Anindilyakwa, but both cultures speak Anindilyakwa. The Groote Archipelago Aboriginal culture is now commonly referred to as the Warnindilyakwa culture, and the people as the Warnindilyakwa people.
Present day Groote Archipelago is managed by the Anindilyakwa Land Council (ALC), through which we had to apply for permits to access Eight Mile Beach which is located on the Eastern side of the Island approximately 7km from the Umbakumba community. Our sincere gratitude and respect to ALC and the traditional owners for allowing us to complete our quest goes beyond words but I will cover some special thanks later in this report.
The Planning
I first made enquires and contact with people on Groote Eylandt in early 2017 when we were travelling across from Queensland to the Northern Territory via and Savanna Way. It was shortly after this I contacted Hugh Bland, Anthropologist for the ALC who over the past five years has been our go to person and the co-ordinator, facilitator, and guide for the whole event. Without Hugh I do not think we would have been able to get to Eight Mile Beach.
Back in September 2017 we were hoping to visit Eight Mile Beach however some sorry business and the oncoming wet season meant we had to postpone. In April/May 2018 we again made contact and requested access but this time our own personal events caused further postponement. Then there was Covid-19, travel restrictions and even if we were allowed Joanne and I deemed it was not appropriate to visit isolated communities during this period.
We never gave up hope and remained in contact especially with Hugh Bland.
Getting to Groote
On the 5 July 2022 we again contacted Hugh Bland regarding accessing Eight Mile Beach. Persistence does pay dividends as Hugh advised that access to the beach was possible. Planning started for the trip to Groote. I initially organised for a single airfare, accommodation, and car hire whilst we were travelling towards Darwin. At Gorge View Bush Retreat we met the lovely Kate who suggested both Joanne and I should go. We hurriedly booked another airfare for Joanne.
We arrived at Groote Eylandt on the morning of 5 August 2022 and were warmly welcomed by Hugh at the Airport. Hugh did however have some concerning news. A person had passed (deceased) in Darwin and there were suggestions they could have connection to the land and sea surrounding Eight Mile Beach, further investigations by Hugh would be needed! Either way, we had arrived on Groote Eylandt and planned to make the most of our short stay.
We had a lovely lunch at the ARC sports club in Alyangula then off to the local supermarket to shop for food and supplies for our Mile Beach expedition the next day.
Later that afternoon we took our 4WD hire car to the Wurruwarrkbadenumanja Cave Paintings. The artwork in this small cave was simply amazing, well-preserved, well worth the short 4WD trek out from Angurugu. The panoramic view from the top of the outcrop was also wonderful.
Returning to Groote Eylandt Lodge, Alyangula for a lovely evening meal and rest in our seaside cabin.
Experience – Eight Mile Beach
We met up with Hugh the following morning back at Groote Eylandt Airport and drove over to Umbakumba community. We arrived at the home of Jedda Mamarika and her partner Archie Jaragba. It was here that we finally received phone calls relating to the passing of the individual in Darwin confirming that they did not have direct cultural connection to Eight Mile Beach, we were cleared to go.
As the access track to eight Mile Beach was a bit beyond our 4WD hire car we piled into Hugh’s troop carrier (troopy) along with Jedda, Archie and their granddaughter Sheraliza. It was not very long after leaving the Umbakumba community when we had to stop and let the tyres down on the troopy. The sand track to the beach was certainly only for skilled 4WD drivers and suitable high clearance vehicles.
We arrived near the southern end of Eight Mile Beach at a location referred to as “Emirreba” where a freshwater creek winds down to the beach. After we disembarked from the troopy I thanked Jedda and Archie for allowing us to access the beach also thanked them for joining us on our journey, I also acknowledged the traditional owners of the land.
It was about a further 600 metres to the geographical southern end from where we had parked the troopy, so I walked/ran along the beach to record the start of the beach. On my return we all piled in the troopy, and Hugh drove us north along the beach. It was evident that the beach was regularly access by other vehicles as there were other older vehicle tracks. We also spotted many turtle tracks leading up the beach to nesting sites. Along the way we also spotted pods of dolphins that escorted us along the beach, at times coming very close to shore, also at least 3 turtles swimming were in the surf zone. We parked about 1km short of the end of the northern end of the beach, at a place I believe called “Amurranga” where we set-up for lunch. I finished the final 1km on foot to record the northern end of the beach. Near the lunch location I collected a sand sample as was the standard procedure for all the beaches visited and now sent home to add to our collection of sand samples stored in Canberra.
One striking feature about Eight Mile Beach is due to the beach’s geographic location and orientation, the tides and currents in the Gulf of Carpentaria deposit seaborne litter predominately along the northern end of the beach. It is sad to see such large amount of pollution mainly comprising plastics.
After we packed up our lunch and all was completed in relation to the Mile Beach requirements, we got back into the troopy and headed back down the beach and returned to the Umbakumba community. We visited the local community store for some celebratory ice creams and soft drinks. Mile Beach certificates and medallions were presented to new Mile Beach club members.
After we returned Jedda, Archie and their granddaughter Sheraliza to their home we called past Victor Mamarika, another traditional owner and his partner Elizabeth place for a quick chat and thanked Victor for allowing us to access Eight Mile Beach.
Acknowledgement and Thanks
Joanne and I wish to acknowledge all traditional owners of the Anindilyakwa people for allowing us to visit Groote Eylandt. We pay respect to the Elders past, present and emerging, for they hold the memories, the traditions, the culture and the hopes for the Anindilyakwa people.
We also wish to again thank the Anindilyakwa Land Council for arranging the special permit for accessing Eight Mile Beach. I also specially thank traditional owners Jason, Jedda and Victor Mamarika for granting access to Eight Mile Beach.
Finally, it is with sincere gratitude our thanks to Hugh Bland for first supporting our quest, putting up with endless emails and phone calls over the past five years, and being our excellent tour guide. Thanks Mate we will never forget the experience.
